Wednesday, November 7, 2007

Major Rockfall at Willow River!

Last time at Willow I was walking up to warmup on Natural Selection and Wam! I ran straight into a huge boulder just before the base of the climb - what the????? Where did this thing come from? I looked at the route and luckily it didn't fall down. Turns out it just rolled down from the sitting rock at the base of Natural. Did an act of god do this? I fear not. More likely some hooligans having fun trundling - or maybe it was a bear looking for some last minute grubs before turning in for the winter. However it got there it sure is in the way. We have to get some he-man rock movers out there to open the trail up again.

I climbed the new linkup from Tsunami into Natural and have to say it is really a great option. Its a great alternative to all the regular jug pulling. And to clean it is even more fun. Climb up Natural through the traverse below the bread loaf, downclimb 20' to the lip of the Tsunami roof to retrieve your draws on Tsunami, then continue up to the top of Natural leaving a TR for someone else to clean Natural.

Hilti.

Sunday, November 4, 2007

Sick Links From The Wang


The American Duo of the Duchess and Prime Time made some sick link ups of local La Grange test pieces.

First off the two made quick work of the new power-endurance route Preemptive Drilling Play. Followed up by a quick send of Jump the New Kids and Touch em at the Boutique where pendulum potential was a serious factor and failing to clip the chains would mean a five and a half to six foot fall. When asked for comments about the commitment grade on the route the Duchess said "I've done some hard things but this makes them all look like a pile of piss".

Afterwards the Duchess quickly made repeats of 3 routes 7b (American grade 5.12b) or harder, while Prime Time ran multiple fitness laps on the same king lines. In an interview Prime Time said that he "owed the day to Patxi and Dani" (his right and left arms respectively) stating that they really pulled him through all the business.

Just as the two were leaving the crag rumors where spreading about the exploits Hilti, Spidey, and the Professor. Check back for more details.